Excellent machinery, rock-solid construction, breathtaking accuracy. First layer and probing always perfect. That was a really splendid upgrade.
The extruder is working without any issues. The upgrade to Hurakan was easy. It's just a pity that there is no option for cable attachment, as there was with the original hotend.
La diferencia al nivelar la cama junto con todas los beneficios que ta da el MicroProbador V2.0 es una herramienta que desde que la instale, tengo excelentes resultados de impreción en la primara capa.
100% Recomendado
Si deseas utilizar el formato original de la Biqu, Marlin o Klipper, aquí tienes la solución. Fácil de instalar y si tienes dudas, existen muchos tutoriales y foros que te explican. La placa de la impresora también fue reemplazada por la SKR 3 EZ la cual recomiendo
Actualización para una Anet ET5
100% Recomendado
Solid microcontroller, perfect for my custom build. Easy to use (using Klipper on Pad 7), the hardest part was crimping the JST-XH connections for the wires. But JST-XH is vastly better than the Dupont connectors they replaced.
Used as controller for heavily modified CoreXY printer with new Octopus v1.1. Some work getting configuration updated, this is a custom build, some effort was expected. After reading the user manuals, but mostly the Klipper Installation and Configuration guides, the Pad 7 is running with no issues. Very nice user interface, touch screen provides a perfect minimalist system, although I continue to use the web interface for uploading prints and some control (case_lighting, for example). Nice that it came with the ADXL345, needed to design a new adapter for my E3D Hemera, but easy to connect and configure.
One of the odd issues was that the 32GB microSD card was very difficult to remove. I had to take a small screwdriver to help wiggle it out (in the end I didn't need to remove the SD card, it's really just used as fixed memory for the CB1 on the Pad 7).
It would be useful to have a simplified, entry level, introduction and configuration guide especially for those new to Klipper. The user manual really just talks about mechanical aspects, like updating the CB1 to CM4, which is useful but not the first most important thing. It does talk about ADXL345 and firmware updates, but without a lot of context. Something focusing on simplified configuration files, specific pointers to the Klipper documentation for the configuration files being discussed, etc. It's easy to get lost in all the details of Klipper, where it is also easy to get the system up and running if there are just a few pointers.
I bought this board along with the TFT 3.5. I needed a quieter board while working in the same room. I removed my stock board from my Ender 3 and replaced it with the the BTT board, installation was easy, got the information from GITHUB. I also installed the touch screen too at the same time.
I fired up the printer all worked fine. I did a test print I could not believe the difference of having a silent board. The room was much quieter too. I could now work in the room and do some of my 3D printing at the same time. I upgraded the firmware also from GITHUB. I am really impressed with this new silent control board, it has made 3D printing more enjoyable.
The only sound I can hear is the sound of the stock fans. I will change these at some point. However, being able to print in silence is really good. Thank you BTT for making a great product.
So far it is working great. I love not having the extra wires between the board and the rpi.
I had to increase from 2.88 to 5.88 mm the detecting distance because it was to sensitive and was pausing my prints, but works fine now.
It's a good printer for a beginner, but it need some care about the settings and trim of its setup before to reach a good quality of printed objects.
äh
Un Pad d'un qualité incroyable, écran très réactif et possibilité de mettre plusieurs imprimantes.
I have not used this yet as I'm not sure what benefit it provides and if it is needed in my application of the other BTT boards I've purchased. But if the need arises then I have it and don't have to wait two to three weeks for delivery. A downloadable document explaining the uses and abilities as well as how to apply this to board in real world applications would be helpful.
After finding the correct driver it was very easy to program.
Used it to upgrade my ender 3, like it alot!
Excellent Board for the SV06 running Klipper!
Having gone the easy path with Crealities pad I gave up and bought the Pad7. The difference was massive, the Pad7 after a few problems setting up was amazing. I highly recommend this. If I had one criticism it would be you have to remove the installed programs and reinstall several versions to achieve full capability. Perhaps Btt could offer another image which had this pre setup for people with more than 1 printer.
I have mounted the Voron Tap V2 on my Voron and so far my first layer is perfect. The product is well machined and it is pretty nice.
BIGTREETECH Manta M4P/M8P/M5P Control Board running Klipper with CB1/CM4
After some weeks thinkering how to mount and fine tune everything in my even less Anet A8, the SKR 1.4 turbo, the TFT35 and the TMC silent drivers, work like a bliss
Great
BTT TFT35-E3 V3.0 Display Touch Screen Two Working Modes
This board is awesome. Its small size fits beautifully in my chassis. It performs very well and has brought new life to some of my older printers. Using the same mounting holes as the rpi is genius. It makes for a very clean installation. I've come to prefer using this board with a pi zero form factor as it stacks neatly above the 2209s and still leaves all the ports accessible.
This board works exceptionally well in conjunction with a toolhead board. As such, the btt pico would benefit substantially from the addition of an onboard can transceiver, or at least supplying 3.3v on the 5v pin next to ground on P5. A more focused "BTT Pico Chassis edition" might be appropriate that is designed solely for use with tool head boards and removes the hot end, laser, and probe ports. To that end, 3 fan ports are excessive as well, and I would prefer a single 4pin 5v or 12v fan port instead that could be used with a noctua fan.
Removing diode 16 (D16) in subsequent revisions would be much appreciated--it's redundant with jumper 3, and I've had to manually short it in order to supply power to my radxa zero over the usb c port, which dramatically simplifies wiring. It would also be nice to introduce a USB PD3.1 port with APDO in place of the main power port that could be configured to 24v either by jumper or I2C wired into the RP2040, which would allow for builds without heated beds to easily be powered by USB C, eliminating the PSU from the chassis while simplifying open chassis builds as well.
Keep up with the great work and can't wait to see this year's holiday releases!